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Casinos in florida keysTo preserve these articles as they originally appeared, The Times does not alter, edit or update them.
Occasionally the digitization process introduces transcription errors or other problems.
Please send reports of such problems to Most people know two things about the Florida Keys, that string of coral islands stretching for more than a hundred miles west of the mainland.
They know about Key Largo, the northernmost island, mainly because of Maxwell Anderson's play, ''Key Largo,'' and the movie with Humphrey Bogart.
And they know about Key West, at the tip, because Ernest Hemingway, Tennessee Williams and other colorful types lived there on and off.
Lately, Key West has been in the news as the receiving point for thousands of refugees from Castro's Cuba, although the locals insist that the Cubans were all put on buses and transported to processing centers far away.
But even many seasoned travelers know little about the dozens of islands in between, and that is probably all to the good.
These islands have not been overrun - yet - with condominiums and shopping centers, discos and boutiques.
The middle - or low-key -Keys still offer the basics: crystal green water, white sand, purple sun-sets and squads of lazy brown pelicans that seem to symbolize the slow-motion style of the islands.
During my recent visit I came to think of the area as a ''cutoff'' place, meaning that it was warm enough, and informal enough, to wear cutoff jeans most of the time.
The Keys are known mainly as a winter resort because the weather is probably more reliable than in other parts of Florida.
But it is possible to take advantage of the main activities - fishing, boating, snorkeling, diving, swimming, tennis, shelling - every day of the year.
And during the off-season, from April 15 to Dec.
The middle Keys have a wide range of accommodations, from motels to condominiums with their own docks.
Everything on the Keys is calculated by mile markers, with Key West at 0 and Key Largo at 108; we stayed at Topsider, a recent development of 20 mushroom-shaped cottages overlooking Florida Bay, at mile marker 75, on Lower Matecumbe Key in the Islamorada district.
My parents were staying there for the month and had invited my wife and me and our two children for a week.
We found it a good spot to use as headquarters because just about everything else on the Keys is accessible by U.
Diving at John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, an underwater sanctuary off Key Largo, or prowling the bars and boutiques of Key West could both be accomplished easily on day trips.
Many of the 19 major bridges that carry the highway to Key West have been replaced recently, and that project provides an extra bonus: good fishing off the old bridges that are no longer used.
The cottage my parents had acquired under a time-sharing program - two bedrooms, a living room, plus kitchen and dining areas - was comfortably furnished in natural fabrics and fibers.
The Topsider resort also had its own dock, several small sailboats and a tennis court.
Its swimming pool had not then been completed, but the family did a lot of swimming in the clean waters of Florida Bay, and we also enjoyed reading on the deck or sunning on the beach below.
The resort owned two Sunfish, small sailboats that are easily handled by amateur captains, and both the children, Lee and Rebecca, spent hours zipping back and forth in them across the bay, their sails snapping in the breeze.
My father, who usually does his sailing in New Jersey, gave them lessons, and by the end of the week both were handling the tiller with ease.
Before we came down my father had also rented a larger sailboat, and with the help of my sister and brother-in-law -experienced sailors from Massachusetts - had ranged for miles between some of the neighboring Keys.
Fishing is probably the most popular sport in the area, and one day Rebecca and I took a half-day trip aboard Miss Tradewinds, a party boat on which you can buy individual seats.
We sailed out of Whale Harbor at mile marker 84.
Rough seas were predicted so we both took some Triptone, an antinausea drug, and before long my fishing buddy was fast asleep.
I stuck to my post, but the heavy swell made it tough on us amateurs, and while a few pros in the stern hauled in a dozen mackerel and dolphin, most of us were shut out.
A friendly fellow named Jerry rigged the pole and showed me how to fish from the bridge over Channel Two, at the other end of Lower Matecumbe.
I spent several hours casinos in florida keys that bridge over the next two days, and my modest haul of mangrove snappers and grunts made a delicious supper on our last night, plus breakfast the next morning.
Fishing and diving require the use of what the pure sailor refers to as a ''stinkpot,'' or motorboat, but if you insist on using only wind-powered machines, Islamorada offers all the open water you can ever casinos in florida keys />The proprietor promises to teach non-sailors the rudiments of the art in less than an hour.
Lime Tree also has canoes that you can use to explore the backwaters of Long Key State Park, right across the road.
When the sun fled, or we needed a respite from it, we explored some of the standard sightseeing destinations that dot the Keys.
One day we spent several hours at Theater of the Sea mile marker 83.
I liked the intimate scale of the place, so intimate that my daughter got a chance to hug a sea lion - who did not seem eager to let her go.
At one pool the guide discussed the local shark population while a couple of large gray examples cruised just a few feet away.
check this out at this odd creature, which resembles a swimming bath mat.
Two giant loggerhead turtles battled for food by biting each other's tails.
Like many similar places, Theater of the Sea has become increasingly concerned about conservation, and recently it was designated a ''headstart'' center, in one trainer's phrase, for baby turtles.
Turtles that are hatched out on beaches naturally head for the brightest light they see - an instinct that traditionally pointed them toward the sea's horizon.
Now that light is usually a seaside highway, so the turtles head blindly toward extinction.
Today, conservationists collect eggs before they hatch, remove them to protected beaches for gestation, and then raise the babies in captivity before eventually returning them to the wild.
Near the turtle nursery was a pool for small sharks, and when Becca was allowed to pet one, she said it felt like a ''wet nylon stocking.
The trainers will often feed wounded birds, and this enterprising visitor learned how to imitate a crippled pelican and beg for food.
The trainer, Belle, was asked how she could tell the five performing dolphins apart, and she said it was easy - they looked different.
I was skeptical at first, but by the end of the show I could notice the differences, too.
Even their varied personalities - aggressive, playful, relaxed - were obvious.
I asked Belle about the dolphin language, and she said that while each animal had a distinctive identification signal, most of the dolphin vocabulary go here still a mystery.
As she talked, I casinos in florida keys three of the group bunched up near a fence.
One of the newcomers, she added, had recently breached the fence surrounding the compound and headed out to sea.
Two of the older dolphins chased after her and brought her back to captivity.
Most of the Keys have been altered substantially by the coming of civilization, but the natural history of the archipelago is preserved on a tiny island called Lignum Vitae Key, now part of the state park system.
Trails first made by Caloosa Indians thread through the forest, where rangers describe such curious flora as the rare and slowgrowing lignum vitae tree the oldest denizen of the forest is 1,600 years old and the gumbo-limbo, nicknamed the tourist tree because its reddish bark is always peeling off.
The tree's gnarled root system resembled the claw of a giant bird, and there were plenty of real ones around, including several species of herons.
A single house, which click here the killer hurricane of 1935, still stands, and offers an early example of key-style architecture.
Most of the limestone blocks used for the outside walls still bear the marks of fossils, the creatures who populated these waters long before anyone ever heard of Hemingway or Bogart.
The Keys area is the home of three great delicacies: stone crabs, the sweeter, plumper cousin of the Atlantic blue crab; conch, a delectable sea snail that resembles abalone; and key lime pie, which is yellow rather than green, with a touch of tartness mellowed by a whipped cream topping.
If you have your own kitchen, you can enjoy these treats at home.
Most markets sell the claws already cooked, and the succulent white meat is usually dressed with a mustard sauce.
A tip if you are cooking: Show up at one of the marina docks at around 4 P.
Good restaurants are almost as plentiful as pelicans in the middle Keys, and virtually all of them are on the main highway between mile markers 80 and 95.
Probably the best known in Islamorada is Ziggy's Conch Inn mile marker 83.
The original Ziggy was a gambler and drifter who worked the casinos up and down the Keys; and legend has it that John Huston, the movie director, got the idea for ''Key Largo'' at a gambling joint frequented by Ziggy himself.
Some years later Ziggy gave up the gambling life and bought a restaurant, where he would recite the specialties of the day in detail for each patron.
Today, his son, Alan, carries on the tradition, presiding over the simple decor and bare tables, and chanting his nightly litany of oysters and shrimp, clams and conch, all with elaborate sauces and stuffings.
We sampled dozens of dishes, but some of our favorites were oysters stuffed with crabmeat; conch in a brown sauce from a Bahamian recipe; a pompano almondine that was fresh and delicate; click soft-shelled crabs so light they seem to float above the plate.
Ziggy's is crowded, so reserve a day or two ahead.
At the Lazy Dolphin mile marker 82 I was delighted with the fried conch appetizer and shrimp de jonghe, done with a cheese and wine sauce.
For lunch after a morning of sightseeing, the Cuban sandwiches toasted cheese, pork and hamconch fritters chopped conch, rolled with spices and cold beer at Manny and Isa's 81 hit the spot.
We missed two of the best-known restaurants in the area, the Green Turtle at marker 80 too casinos in florida keys, no reservations taken and Marker 88 a bit too far away.
Until the evening before we left I had been skeptical about something my father kept referring casinos in florida keys as the ''mystique of the Keys.
A sizable snapper hit the line and I felt the hook hold firmly as I reeled it in.
A few buddies crowded around for a look, and then I left for Topsider, the fish still thrashing in the plastic bag I was using for my catch.
Minutes later the snapper was in the oven, and when I tasted that fish, with the waves whispering outside the cottage, I knew I was tasting the mystique of the Keys.
Lower Matecumbe Key click at this page about an hour and 45 minutes from the airport.
Miss Romanowicz 305-664-4503 will help guide you to the right place.
Cheeca has tennis, swimming and its own fishing pier.
The Holiday Inn has many of the same features on a more limited scale for half the price.
Many time-sharing resorts, like Topside, and condominiums also rent out units.
The charter boats generally take a party of six, but sometimes you can buy a ''split,'' an empty seat on someone else's charter.
The usual catch off Islamorada includes snapper, grouper, casinos in florida keys and yellowtail, but the captains will sometimes go out to the Gulf Stream and aim for sailfish.
One day I saw two of these prizes hauled ashore.
The number of Holiday Isle's charter booking office is 305-664-2321; the marina also has a toll-free number for all of its services: 1-800-327-7070.
Bob and Cathy Hamilton at the rental shop supply fishing maps of the area and advice on what is running.
Another possibility is back-country fishing on the bay side of the Keys, where the game is tarpon and bonefish, the fastest critter in the area.
For those who like to look at fish, rather than catch them, the middle Keys offer endless opportunities for snorkelers and scuba divers.
We tried several days to arrange a boat trip to nearby reefs, where the visibility is 50 feet down on a clear day, but rough water kept us home.
On calm days, trips can be made from a dozen places, including the dive shop at Holiday Isle.
For the ambitious diver, many shops on Key Largo arrange trips to John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park.
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